Pokemon just recently debuted a new monster named Yamper. This adorable Welsh Corgi inspired guy has already caught the hearts of nearly everyone who has seen him. I had never before made a Pokemon but couldn’t resist trying my hand at this dapper little fellow.
I think the heart butt is one of the main features that makes this little guy so endearing. It’s also one of the parts that presented me with the biggest design challenges. I wanted to do it in the round to get that cute little circle in the middle, and I was hoping there was already a vintage pattern out there for a nice big heart like I needed (it’s 6″ across), but I couldn’t find anything. So it did take me awhile to get the shape just how I wanted it.
Yamper is a fairly large amigurumi. I used medium #4 worsted weight acrylic yarn and a 3mm hook. Mine measures in at 13″ from nose to tail as well as 13″ from floor to top of ear. It’s by far the biggest one I’ve ever made.
Just look how big it is in the arms of my 6 year old, Kenji.
I tried to get all the little details I could with the limited images there are of Yamper this early in the game.
A little pink tongue poking out from a dark mouth with tiny little pupper teeth.
Outlined eyes to give it that animation look. Yeah, I know I’m missing the little white square highlights but I really dislike using felt and haven’t figured out how I want to stitch it on yet.
Cute little pupper feet poking out from under a chubby little body.
I have seen some fan art showing Yamper with little yellow bean toes but since I haven’t seen an official Pokemon image of the bottom of his feet I chose to leave those details off for now.
I even did my best to get those cup shaped bat ears.
This pattern is written using US terminology and
abbreviations.
(This pattern may not use all the following abbreviations. This is my master
list I add to most patterns.)
Stitches used in US terminology:
MR – magic ring
sc – single crochet
ch – chain
inc – increase (by creating 2 sc stitches together into the same space)
dec –decrease (by joining 2 sc stitches together with a single stitch)
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
dc inc – double crochet increase
dc dec – double crochet decrease
tr – triple crochet
sl st – slip stitch
FO – finish off
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
I used 3 beige 40g skeins and lesser amounts of white, yellow, pink, and green. It also takes a generous amount of fiberfill and some brown thread for detail stitching. I used dark grey felt for the inside of the mouth.
Belly – white (worked as joined rounds but the sl st and ch1 are not included in the count) ch 13
1. starting in 2nd ch from the hook 11sc, 3sc in end st, turn to continue around unworked side of chain, 10sc, sl st to join and ch1. (26)
2. Inc, 10sc, inc x3, 10sc, inc x2, sl st to join, ch1. (32)
3. Sc, inc, 10sc, [sc, inc] x3, 10sc, x2, sl st to join, ch1. (38)
4. 2sc, inc, 10sc, [2sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [2sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (44)
5. 3sc, inc, 10sc, [3sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [3sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (50)
6. 4sc, inc, 10sc, [4sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [4sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (56)
7. 5sc, inc, 10sc, [5sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [5sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (62)
8. 6sc, inc, 10sc, [6sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [6sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (68)
9. 7sc, inc, 10sc, [7sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [7sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (74)
10. 8sc, inc, 10sc, [8sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [8sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (80)
11. 9sc, inc, 10sc, [9sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [9sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (86)
12. 10sc, inc, 10sc, [10sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [10sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (92)
13. 11sc, inc, 10sc, [11sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [11sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (98)
14. 12sc, inc, 10sc, [12sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [12sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (104)
15. 13sc, inc, 10sc, [13sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [13sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (110)
16. 14sc, inc, 10sc, [14sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [14sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (116)
17. 15sc, inc, 10sc, [15sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [15sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (122)
18. 16sc, inc, 10sc, [16sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [16sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (128)
FO
Body – beige (worked as joined rounds but the sl st and ch1 are not included in the count)
ch 13
1. starting in 2nd ch from the hook 11sc, 3sc in end st, turn to continue around unworked side of chain, 10sc, sl st to join and ch1. (26)
2. Inc, 10sc, inc x3, 10sc, inc x2, sl st to join, ch1. (32)
3. Sc, inc, 10sc, [sc, inc] x3, 10sc, x2, sl st to join, ch1. (38)
4. 2sc, inc, 10sc, [2sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [2sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (44)
5. 3sc, inc, 10sc, [3sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [3sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (50)
6. 4sc, inc, 10sc, [4sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [4sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (56)
7. 5sc, inc, 10sc, [5sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [5sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (62)
8. 6sc, inc, 10sc, [6sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [6sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (68)
9. 7sc, inc, 10sc, [7sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [7sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (74)
10. 8sc, inc, 10sc, [8sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [8sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (80)
11. 9sc, inc, 10sc, [9sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [9sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (86)
12. 10sc, inc, 10sc, [10sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [10sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (92)
13. 11sc, inc, 10sc, [11sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [11sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (98)
14. 12sc, inc, 10sc, [12sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [12sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (104)
15. 13sc, inc, 10sc, [13sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [13sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (110)
16. 14sc, inc, 10sc, [14sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [14sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (116)
17. 15sc, inc, 10sc, [15sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [15sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (122)
18. 16sc, inc, 10sc, [16sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [16sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (128)
19. 17sc, inc, 10sc, [17sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [17sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (134)
20. 18sc, inc, 10sc, [18sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [18sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (140)
21. 19sc, inc, 10sc, [19sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [19sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (146)
22. 20sc, inc, 10sc, [20sc, inc] x3, 10sc, [20sc, inc] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (152)
23-42. (20 rows) 152sc (152)
43. 20sc, dec, 10sc, [20sc, dec] x3, 10sc, [20sc, dec] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (146)
44. 19sc, dec, 10sc, [19sc, dec] x3, 10sc, [19sc, dec] x2, sl st to join, ch1. (140)
43. [8sc, dec] x2, 10sc, [8sc, dec] x6, 10sc, [8sc, dec] x4, sl st to join, ch1. (128)
You can FO now or leave yarn attached to sc the bottom and top pieces together. For mine I inserted my hook through the white bottom first and used the beige yarn which gave a ridge of beige sc to join. Stuff as you go before closing.
Eye Pupil – green (make 2)
1. 6sc in MR. (6)
FO with tail for sewing.
Nose – yellow (make 1)
1. 6sc in MR. (6)
2. [sc, inc] x3. (9)
3. [2sc, inc] x3. (12)
Fold in half and sc both sides together to close.
FO with tail for sewing.
Tail Top – yellow (make 1)
stuff as you go.
1. 6sc in MR. (6)
2. [sc, inc] x3. (9)
3. [2sc, inc] x3. (12)
4 – 5. (2 rows) 12sc. (12)
6. [3sc, inc] x3. (15)
7 – 8. (2 rows) 15sc. (15)
9. [4sc, inc] x3. (18)
10 – 11. (2 rows) 18sc. (18)
12. [5sc, inc] x3. (21)
13 – 14. (2 rows) 21sc. (21)
15. [5sc, dec] x3. (18)
16. [sc, dec] x6. (12)
17. Dec x6. (6)
FO.
Tail Base – yellow (make 1)
stuff as you go.
1. 6sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc x6. (12)
3. [sc, inc] x6. (18)
4. [5sc, inc] x3. (21)
5 – 6. (2 rows) 21sc. (21)
7. [5sc, dec] x3. (18)
8 – 9. (2 rows) 18sc. (18)
10. [4sc, dec] x3. (15)
11 – 12. (2 rows) 15sc. (15)
13. [3sc, dec] x3. (12)
14 – 15. 12sc. (12)
FO with tail for sewing.
Tail Join – yellow (make 1)
Starting with long tail for sewing, ch21.
1 – 2. (2 rows) 21sc.
FO with long tail for sewing.
Heart Butt – start with yellow (make 1)
*worked in joined rounds
Round 1 (right side). Start with MR. Ch2 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 11 more dc in ring; join with sl st in top of beginning ch. (12)
Round 2. Ch2, turn, dc in same st as join, 2dc in each remaining st around; join with sl st in top of beginning ch. (24)
Round 3. Ch2, turn, dc in same st as join, dc in next st, [2dc in next st, dc in next st] x2; join with sl st in beginning ch. (36)
Round 4. Ch1, turn, sc in same st as join, sc in next 4 st, hdc in next st, [hdc, dc] in next st, dc in next st, in next st, dc in next st, [dc, hdc] in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 5 st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, [dc, tr] in next st, 2tr in each of next 2 st, [tr, dc] in next st, [dc, hdc] in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, sc in next st, [hdc, dc] in next st, [dc, tr] in next st, 2tr in each of next 2 st,[tr, dc] in next st, dc in next 2 st, hdc in last st; join with sl st in first sc. (50)
Round 5. Ch1, turn, skip joining sl st, sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, [dc, tr] in next st, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, [tr, dc] in next st, dc in next 2 st, hdc in next st, sl st in next 5 st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, [dc, tr] in next st, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, [tr, dc] in next st, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st; 14 sl st to bottom point.
Round 6. Ch2, *do NOT turn, 4dc in same st as sl st, 12dc, [2dc in next st, dc, dc] x5, hdc, 3sc, hdc, [2dc, 2dc in next st] x5, 12dc; join with sl st in beginning ch.
*Change to green.
Round 7. Ch2, dc in same st, dc, 5dc in next st, 14dc, [2dc in next st, 3dc] x4, 2dc in next st, 2hdc, 5sc, 2hdc, 2dc in next st, [3dc, 2dc in next st] x4, 14dc; join with sl st in beginning ch.
FO leaving tail for sewing.
That’s all I’m giving away as a sample of my writing style.
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Assembly
The first part you will have assembled and stuffed will be the body. I used a single crochet stitch to join the 2 halves together but you could just sew it if you prefer. Next, I took the yellow neck ruff and pinned it in place with the bottom coming just above the seam where the beige upper body and white belly pieces come together. Then, I stuffed the head piece (without any of the other pieces attached) and pressed it into the top of the neck ruff where I wanted it to sit and pinned it firmly in place through the ruff and into the body. Make sure the ridge made with BLO is facing to the front as this is the guide line for placing the eye patches and the mouth piece. I unpinned the neck ruff so I could roll it up over the head, out of my way, and stitched the head to the body going through the ruff. This is what gives it that stubby neck look. Then I rolled the ruff back down and stitched it to the body, stuffing as I went.
Next, I placed the beige facial patches and pinned them in place as I checked with the ear placement that it looked good. The bottom edge of the facial patch will ride right above the BLO line. Stitch down the patches and place and sew on the ears. After that you can sew the green pupil to the yellow eye and then sew the completed eye on the bottom front corner of the facial patch.
The mouth piece was the next part I did. I sewed the back side of the seam between the 2 halves together, leaving the front side open for access for stuffing. I did lightly stuff the upper lip but not the mouth corners or the lower jaw. I pinned it in place to get the shape I wanted and then
carefully
unpinned it so I wouldn’t change the shape. I tack stitched a piece of dark
grey felt on the back side of the mouth piece before pinning it on the head
again and sewing in place. I sewed the tongue on the top edge of the bottom jaw
and finished sewing the 2 halves of the jaw together. I also used a single
stitch to tack the lower jaw to the head. It was a tight enough fit for me that
only that stitch was needed to secure the bottom jaw.
I stretched the corners of
the mouth out to the sides firmly and started sewing from those outer edges
toward the center where the nose would go. Before finishing sewing the seam
between the upper lip together, I finished stuffing it. Then I sewed on the
nose. I just took white yarn and went around a stitch on the lower jaw several
times to give the impression of a tooth.
I took brown thread and
ran around the eye pieces to give it a sharp outline. I really dislike using
felt on my amigurumi and I haven’t thought of the option I want to use to get
the square highlight just yet, which is why it’s missing from my Yamper.
Next, I designed the feet
and attached them, sewing them right up to the seam where the body and belly
pieces come together. Make sure you’re paying attention to how the toes will
point. I added the toe threads after my feet were attached but you might want
to do the threads first to help you see the exact direction your feet will
point in.
The heart butt was the
next thing on the list. I really wanted to do it in the round so the MR would
give the look of a cute little butt-hole but there was nothing out there
already designed the large size I needed it to be. Just pin it in place and sew
down.
The last part to add is
the tail. Assembling the tail itself is just a matter of laying the 2 teardrop
shapes so the points are in opposite directions and using the joining collar to
complete the shape. I didn’t need to stuff the collar on mine. Sewing the tail
through the heart and into the body might be a bit challenging with a straight
needle; even more than the mouth part was. I wish I had a curved one when I did
mine.
I hope you enjoyed making
your Yamper as much as I had designing him!
Please
do not reproduce, redistribute, translate, put in video format, or copy this
pattern in any way.
It would be nice if you would mention me as the designer when sharing your
completed items and I would love if you would tag me on Instagram
@HaterumaHandmade so I can see how yours looks!
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